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How to Build a DIY Entertainment Center



To tame tech clutter, your television and other media devices, such as streaming boxes, DVRs, and DVD players, need a secure, stylish home. This easy-to-build DIY entertainment center provides a dependable base for a TV and has two sliding doors that can hide all your peripheral devices so you'll not only keep them out of sight, you also won't have to clean the electronics as often. Half of the center remains open for displaying books and favorite curios. With mid-century modern-inspired tapered, flared legs, this sleek entertainment center sits low to the ground at just around 19 inches high. Pre-laminated wood shelves are the chief building material and eliminate the need for painting. This entertainment center will complement any contemporary-styled living room or media room.

What You'll Need Equipment / Tools

  • Tape measure

  • Pencil

  • Circular saw

  • Hacksaw

  • Drill and bits

  • Miter saw

  • Tack cloth

  • Countersink bit

  • 2-inch hole saw

Materials

  • 2 white laminated wood shelves with finished edges, 12 x 72 inches

  • 2 aluminum channels, 3/8 x 3/8 x 72 inches

  • 1/4-inch bugle-head screws

  • 4 metal or wood cabinet/sofa legs with screws, 7 1/2 inches long

  • Plywood project panel, 1/4 x 24 x 48 inches

  • Wood stain and sealer

  • 2 satin nickel stainless steel 3-inch hole center Euro-style cabinet pulls

  • 1-inch screws

  • 10 #2-screw white plastic screw covers

  • Fine sandpaper

  • White-primed or melamine project panel, 1/4 x 24 x 72 inches

Instructions

  1. Cut the Top, Bottom, and Side Boards Cut the two laminated shelves to length at 56 inches, using a circular saw. From the remaining material, cut two pieces to length at 12 inches. Make sure that the two 12-inch boards each have one finished (laminated) edge.

  2. Set the Aluminum Channels Cut the two aluminum channels to length at 56 inches, using a hacksaw. Run the channels along the outer edge of the 56-inch boards; they will act as guides for the sliding doors. The outer edge of the channel should be flush with the outer edge of the board. Drill four evenly spaced holes through each channel, for mounting screws. Carefully bore out the top of each hole with either a countersink bit or a slightly larger drill bit so that the screw head will sink flush with the channel. Attach the channels to the shelves with four 1/4-inch bugle-head screws per channel. Be careful when countersinking screws in the aluminum channel. The material is thin and may tear through if you drill too far.

  3. Attach the Legs Attach two legs at 18 inches from the end of each 56-inch board, using the provided screws. Repeat on the other end. Tapered legs with welded bases can be attached from the bottom, which is considerably easier than attaching from the other side of the board.

  4. Cut and Finish the Sliding Doors From the plywood project panel, cut door two panels to size at 10 1/2 x 16 inches so the wood grain runs parallel to the 10 1/2-inch edges. Lightly sand the good side with fine-grit sandpaper, then remove all sanding dust with a tack cloth. Apply the wood stain and sealer of your choice, and let the doors dry.

  5. Add the Cabinet Pulls Drill two holes 3 inches apart on each of the cabinet doors. Attach the cabinet pulls using the provided screws.

  6. Attach the Side Boards Set the two 56-inch boards on edge, 12 inches apart and parallel to each other. Position the 12-inch side boards so that their finished edge is facing forward (toward the front of the cabinet). The one cut edge of each board will be facing backward and will not be visible. Place one of the 12-inch boards at the side. Screw this side board into place with three 1-inch screws driven into the top board and three screws into the bottom board. Be sure to first drill the pilot holes and countersink holes. Slide the cabinet doors into the channels. Then attach the second side board on the other side of the cabinet. Cover up the screws with the white plastic screw covers. You must slide the cabinet doors into the channels before attaching the second side panel. You will have no access after attaching that second side.

  7. Cut the Back Panel Lay the white project panel (the back panel) on the ground with the white side facing up. Lay the entertainment center on its side, on top of the white project panel, as a template. Mark off the size of the back panel with the pencil. Remove the entertainment center and cut the white project panel on its marks with the circular saw.

  8. Attach the Back Panel From the rear, attach the back panel to the entertainment center using 1/2-inch screws. Be sure that the entertainment center is perfectly square before attaching the back panel, as the panel will lock its position in place. Use four screws on each long side and three screws on each short side. It is not necessary to countersink these screws as they will be hidden in the back.

  9. Cut a Wire Access Hole Cut a 2-inch hole in the center of the back panel, using the drill and a 2-inch hole saw. Depending on your wiring needs, you may need to cut more than one hole.


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